Direct answer: Shanghai four-happiness kaofu is made by simmering porous wheat-gluten cubes with shiitake mushrooms, wood ear, lily buds and peanuts in a sweet-savory soy sauce. Boil and squeeze packaged kaofu first, brown it for better texture, then braise 25 to 30 minutes until the sauce is absorbed.
Key takeaways
- Kaofu is wheat gluten and is not gluten-free.
- Rehydrate dried ingredients separately and rinse well.
- Boil, cool and squeeze kaofu before browning.
- Use moderate heat so the sweet sauce does not burn.
- Chill before serving for the traditional appetizer texture.
What is four-happiness kaofu?
Si xi kaofu is a Shanghai cold dish built around sponge-like wheat gluten. The “four happiness” usually refers to four accompanying ingredients, commonly shiitake mushrooms, wood ear mushrooms, dried lily buds and peanuts. Recipes vary by household. Kaofu absorbs sauce like a sponge, so preparation controls whether it tastes clean and pleasantly chewy or watery and overly salty.
Ingredients for 6 appetizer servings
- 14 ounces/400 g fresh or frozen kaofu
- 8 dried shiitake mushrooms
- 1/2 ounce/15 g dried wood ear mushrooms
- 1 ounce/30 g dried lily buds
- 1/2 cup/75 g raw blanched peanuts
- 3 tablespoons neutral oil
- 3 tablespoons light soy sauce
- 1 tablespoon dark soy sauce
- 3 tablespoons sugar
- 1 tablespoon Shaoxing wine
- 1 1/2 cups/355 ml water or unsalted mushroom soaking liquid
- 1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil
Preparation takes about 35 minutes, cooking 40 minutes and chilling at least 2 hours.
Step 1: rehydrate dried ingredients
Put shiitake, wood ear and lily buds in separate bowls. Cover with plenty of cool water. Soak shiitake 30 minutes, wood ear 20 minutes and lily buds 20 minutes, or follow package directions. Drain and rinse thoroughly.
Trim hard shiitake stems. Remove woody bases from wood ear. Pinch off tough lily-bud ends and tie each bud loosely if desired. Strain shiitake soaking liquid through a coffee filter before using; discard gritty sediment.
Step 2: prepare the peanuts
Cover peanuts with water in a small saucepan. Simmer 20 minutes, then drain. They should be tender but intact. Packaged roasted salted peanuts are not a direct substitute because they become excessively salty and lose their crisp texture.
Step 3: clean the kaofu
Tear kaofu into irregular 1 1/2-inch/4-cm cubes. Boil in plenty of water for 5 minutes. Drain, cool until safe to handle, then squeeze each cube firmly without crushing it. Repeat once if the kaofu has a strong fermented aroma.
This removes excess flavor from packaging and empties the pores so they can take in fresh sauce. Pat the squeezed cubes dry.
Step 4: brown for a resilient surface
Heat a wide skillet over medium heat. Add neutral oil and kaofu in one layer. Cook 8 to 10 minutes, turning every 2 minutes, until several sides are golden. Work in batches if necessary.
Do not use high heat. Dry gluten can catch quickly, and later sugar makes scorching more likely.
Step 5: build the braise
Add shiitake, wood ear, lily buds and peanuts. Stir for 2 minutes. Add light soy, dark soy, sugar, Shaoxing wine and 1 1/2 cups water or strained mushroom liquid. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a steady low simmer.
Step 6: simmer and reduce
Partially cover and simmer 20 minutes, stirring every 5 minutes. Uncover and cook 5 to 10 minutes more until liquid becomes glossy and mostly absorbed. Stir gently so kaofu stays in cubes.
Taste one cooled piece. Add water if too salty; add light soy by teaspoons if flat. Stir in sesame oil off heat.
Step 7: chill and serve
Spread the dish in a shallow container so it cools faster. Refrigerate within two hours and chill at least 2 hours. Serve cool or at room temperature, not straight from a hot pan. The resting time lets flavors equalize.
Substitutions
No lily buds
Use extra shiitake or bamboo shoots. The dish will have fewer than the classic four accompaniments but still braises correctly.
No wood ear
Use another mild mushroom. Do not forage mushrooms; use commercially sold edible products.
Alcohol-free
Replace Shaoxing wine with water plus 1 teaspoon rice vinegar.
Peanut-free
Omit peanuts and use cooked edamame if soy is suitable. Disclose cross-contact risks from sauces and packaged gluten.
Common mistakes
Kaofu tastes sour or packaged
It needed another boil and squeeze. Cleaning is important before seasoning.
The centers taste bland
Cubes were not squeezed enough or sauce reduced too quickly. Empty the pores and keep a gentle simmer.
The sauce burns
Heat was too high after sugar was added. Use a wide pan, moderate heat and regular stirring.
Wood ear feels gritty
It was not rinsed or trimmed carefully. Agitate in clean water after soaking.
The dish is watery
Kaofu or mushrooms retained excess soaking water. Squeeze and drain before braising, then finish uncovered.
Food safety and allergens
Kaofu is concentrated wheat gluten and is unsafe for people with celiac disease or wheat allergy. This recipe also contains peanuts, soy and sesame, and some Shaoxing wine or soy sauces may contain wheat. Check every label.
Rehydrate dried mushrooms in the refrigerator when soaking longer than two hours. Cook rehydrated ingredients promptly. Refrigerate the finished dish within two hours and use within 3 to 4 days.
Related lessons
For another Shanghai cold dish, see our Shanghai smoked fish guide. Our Buddha's Delight tutorial covers dried-ingredient preparation. Recipes4Less courses demonstrate soaking, sauce reduction and texture control visually.
FAQ
Is kaofu the same as tofu?
No. Kaofu is fermented or leavened wheat gluten; tofu is made from soybeans.
Is four-happiness kaofu vegan?
It can be vegan when sauces and wine contain no animal ingredients. Check labels.
Can I use seitan?
Dense seitan does not absorb sauce like porous kaofu, so the texture differs substantially.
Why serve it cold?
Chilling firms the gluten slightly and allows the sweet-savory seasoning to distribute evenly.
Can I freeze it?
Freezing can alter mushroom and gluten texture. Refrigeration for 3 to 4 days is preferable.
Conclusion
Good four-happiness kaofu depends on careful soaking, repeated squeezing, gentle browning and a slow sweet-soy reduction. Chill it before serving, and clearly disclose wheat, peanut, soy and sesame allergens.